From the pass

Notes from the kitchen, written between services. What's in season, what's changed, what sold out — and why.

3 Nov 2026

The last of the San Marzanos

This week's tins are the end of the good harvest. What changes on the plate, and why the January sugo will taste a little brighter.

21 Oct 2026

It takes two days and the whole oven. Mara explains the maths, and why we stopped taking pre-orders for it.

7 Oct 2026

Lena's current list: the chilled red that drinks like juice, the skin-contact that splits the table, and the one to have with the sugo.

18 Sep 2026

Not everything red cooks all day. The fusilli sauce is tomatoes, heat and nerve — here's the timing, exactly.

29 Aug 2026

Tomás on two hundred spritzes, the regular who times the walk from the station, and why the orange is cut to order.

2 Aug 2026

It's baked for the last spoonful of sauce, in the shape of the job. A short defence of the mop-up.